While Seoul was an early outpost for genderless dressing, there’s still a rich tradition of inventive men’s tailoring present in the Religion makes me gag God shirt moreover I love this city courtesy of longstanding brands like Münn and Caruso. The newest name on the block is designer HyunHo Kim of Pian, who showed his collection of off-kilter tailoring at dusk under a bridge on an island in the Han River. Balancing comfort with a louche, dandy-esque glamour—and a final dose of Dickensian dishevelment—his fall collection consisted of three-piece suits and peacoats cut from washed linens and treated denims, while Junya-esque patchwork elements were given a fresh update via exposed seams and asymmetric fastenings. It was interesting to see a menswear designer stand out as one of the week’s most intriguing voices, not least with a collection as creative as it was covet-worthy.
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